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of the rear stainless steel brake line |
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Rubicon
Express Stainless Steel
Extended Brakelines
When
I bought this CJ, the previous had already installed a decent 4"
spring lift. The only problem was, he didn't bother to install new
extended brakelines. Needless to say, this Jeep was basically usless
for any real off-roading and wouldn't even begin to think about disconnecting
the swaybars. So, I bought me a set of front and rear Rubicon Express
Stainless Steel Extended Brakelines
and this is how I installed them.
What
You Will Need
• Stainless Steel
Extended Brakelines (Front/Rear)
• New Crush Washers (Copper) for front lines
• Basic SAE Wrench Set
• 3/8"-7/16" Flare Nut Wrench
• 3/8" Brake Bleeder Wrench
• Vice-Grips
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands
• Brake Bleeder Kit or Vacuum Hose/Bottle
• Brake Fluid
• Rags
Installation
1.
This really is a simple mod but can turn into a real PITA if you don't
have the right tools... come to think of it, it still can be a PITA
even if you have the right tools. Having said that, do yourself a
favor, spend a few buck and get if nothing else a 3/8" - 7/16"
flare nut wrench and/or a good vice-grip.
2. Because it is easier to do, we'll start with the
rear brakeline. Using the flare nut wrench you bought, disconnect
the brake line that is connected to the frame cross-member and then
disconnect two lines going to the wheels.
3. This line should be attached to the axle by a
single bolt which should be removed at this time.
4. Install the new stainless steel brakeline in reverse
order.
5. It is easier to work on the front brakelines with
the wheels off so I jacked the front of my Jeep up, removed the wheels,
and set it back down on jackstands.
6. Once again, using your flare nut wrench, disconnect
the exitsing brakeline where it is attached to the frame and then
from the caliper.
7. RE supplies new frame brackets so remove the exiting
ones at this time.
8. Install the new brackets on the frame.
9. Install your new extend brakelines and be sure
to use new copper crush washers where it connects to the calipers.
If you don't, you more than likely will experience leaks at this point.
10. Bleed your brakes and master cylinder and then
check for any leaks. If you have any at flare nut connections, back
out the nut a little and then tighten it back down again. This is
usually enough to do the trick. If you are getting a leak at the caliper,
you probably didn't heed my advice and need to install new copper
crush washers.
NOTE: even with the flare nut wrench, this was a
near impossible job and I broke out a pair of good vice-grips to finally
get the job done. In other words, don't even bother trying to do this
with a standard open wrench.
That should be it. Please let me know if you have any questions.
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