Full Traction Suspension 6" Long Arm Lift Kit

Full Traction Suspension
 
What You Need
6" Full Traction Long Arm Lift Kit
Full Traction M4 Monotube Shocks
Full Traction Rear Sway Bar
Full Traction Exhaust System
SYE/CV Drive Shaft
• 13,15,18,17,19,21mm
Sockets & Wrenches
• 5/16,3/8,1/2,9/16,5/8,11/16,
3/4,13/16,7/8,1-1/8"
Sockets & Wrenches
• Large 1-5/16" or 34mm Socket
• T-55 Torx Bit
• 3/8 & 1/2" Drive Ratchets
• 3/8" Flare Nut Wrench
• Torque Wrench - 150 ft. lb.
• Large Crescent Wrench - 2"
• Breaker Bar
• 1/8,9/16,5/16" Cobalt Drill Bits
• 3/4,1-1/8" Metal Hole Saw
• Heavy Duty 1/2" Hand Drill
• Right Angle Hand Drill or Adapter
• Die Grinder
• Cut-Off Wheel, Grinder & Sander
• Reciprocating Saw
• Metal Cutting Blades
• Center Punch
• Ball Peen Hammer
• 3 lb. Hammer
• Dead Blow Hammer
• Pitman Arm Puller
• Pickle Fork Ball Joint Separator
• Tie Down Strap (Big & Small)
• 3 Ton Floor Jack (19"+ Lift Height)
• (5) 6 Ton Heavy Duty Jack Stands
• (4) 3 Ton Jack Stands
• Wheel Chocks
• Spring Compressors
• Long Pry Bar
• Anti-Seize
• Grease Gun
• Lithium Grease
Assembly Lube
• Semi-Gloss Black Paint
• Tape Measure
• Safety Glasses
• Gloves
• Dual Action Sander
• Various Sandpaper Grits
• Dremel w/Metal Grinding Bit


What you Will Get

Master Hardware Kit
9 - 3/8” x 1.0” NC Grade 8 Bolt
6 - 3/8” x 3.75 NC Grade 8 Bolt
7 - 3/8” Metal Lock Nuts
16 - 3/8” Flat Washers
3 - 3/8” Tek Screw
3 - Inner Frame Brake Line Tab
4 - 10mm x 1.5” x 35mm Long Bolt
4 - 10mm Lock Washer
4 - 10mm Small Flat Washer
6 - 1/2” x 3.5” NC Grade 8 Bolt
1 - 1/2” x 2.5” NC Grade 8 Bolt
7 - 1/2” x 1.5” NC Grade 8 Bolt
26 - 1/2” SAE Flat Washer
10 - 1/2” Metal Lock Nut
2 - 1/2” x 5” NC Grade 8 Bolt
1 - 9/16” x 2.5” NCC Grade 8 Bolt
1 - 9/16” Metal Lock Nut
2 - 9/16” SAE Flat Washer
2 - Crush Sleeve, Frame
6 - Crush Sleeve, Frame

Brake Line Kit

2 - Brake Line, Front
1 - Brake Line, Rear
3 - Brake Line Brackets
3 - Brake Line Retaining Clip

Control Arm Greasable Bolt Kit

6 - 9/16” x 4” Grade 8 Bolts
2 - 9/16” x 4” Greasable Bolts
8 - 9/16” Metal Lock Nuts
16 - 9/16” Flat Washers SAE

1 - FTS3001 Pitman Arm

Long Arm Hardware Kit
4 - 1” x 1-1/4”-12 Male Rod End
4 - 1-1/4” Jam Nut

High MisAlignment Spacer Kit

8 - High MisAlignment Spacer

Shock Bracket Kit
2 - Rear Shock Bracket, Lower
2 - 1/2” x 2.5 Grade 8 Bolt
2 - 1/2” Metal Lock Nut
4 - 1/2” Flat Washers
2 - SLE121 Sleeve

Rear Support & V-Link Component Kit
1 - 3/4” x 4.5” Grade 5 Fine Thread Bolt
2 - 3/4” Flat Washer
2 - High MisAlignment Spacer
2 - Aluminum Spacer, RR Upper Mount

Front Track Bar Hardware Kit
1 - KMX-12 3/4” Chromoly Rod End
2 - MisAlignment Spacers
2 - Black Vecton Track Bar Bushing
1 - SLE 151 Track Bar Sleeve
1 - 3/4” Jam Nut

Suspension Components
2 - Front Lower Control Arm-Uni
1 - Control Arm Frame Support, Right
1 - Control Arm Frame Support, Left
1 - Upper Front Link Mount, Right
1 - Upper Front Link Mount, Left
2 - Rear Lower Control Arm
2 - Upper Front Control Arm, Assembled
1 - Front Track Bar Frame Cross Brace
1 - Front Adjustable Track Bar
1 - Track Bar Frame Mount Bracket
1 - Rear Upper “V” Link Support
1 - Compressor Mount Rubicon Only
7 - 1/4” X 3/4” Bolts & nuts
7 - 1/4” Metal Lock Nuts
14 - 1/4” Flat Washer
1 - Dana 35 Diff Reinforcement Plate
1 - Dana 44 Diff Reinforcement Plate
1 - Upper Reinforcement Plate w/nut
3 - 5/6” X 1” Bolts
3 - N516MLN
3 - FW516 Flat Washer
1 - Rear Sway Bar Link Kit Assembled
1 - Front Sway Bar Link kit Assembled

Bushing & Sleeve Kit
8 - Lower Control Arm Bushings
4 - Upper Rear V-Bar Bushings
4 - Control Arm Sleeve
2 - Upper Rear V-Bar Sleeve

Bump Stop Hardware Kit
4 - 10mm x 1.50 x 70mm Grade 5 Bolt
4 - 3/8” x 2” Self Tapping Bolt
4 - Lower Bump Stops, Front & Rear
4 - Upper Bump Stops, Front & Rear
1 - Installation Instructions

2 - Coil Spring, Front 6” TJ 97-04
2 - Coil Spring, Rear 6” TJ 97-04

1 - Upper Rear V-Link
1 - 1” Spherical Bearing Assembled
1 - Retaining Ring Assembled

1 - Center Skid Plate 6” TJ 97-04

NOTE: 2003/04 Automatic Only
1 - Front Skid Plate 6” TJ 97-04
1 - Mount bracket w/Hardware


As Stated by
Full Traction Suspension

Our competition is not ready for this system, but your Jeep is. The Full Traction Suspension 6” long arm lift system for Jeep TJ models is a complete replacement suspension system. It utilizes 4 link front axle mounting for a true and correct caster curve throughout the entire range of linear wheel travel. Other systems using radius arms, medium length arms called “long arms” and the rest can't match it's performance.

For the rear axle, it gets better. Utilizing a true long arm rear 3 link, the Full Traction Suspension upper triangulated bar pivots on a high-misalignment uni-ball joint. This eliminates the need for a rear axle track bar. The result, is incredible linear wheel travel and axle articulation for your Jeep TJ without the binding caused by a rear track bar.

The Full Traction Suspension 6" long arm lift system offers hard core rock crawling performance from a system that rides and steers BETTER than a stock. Do you drive your Jeep TJ daily? You now can without compromised handling. The perfect geometry of our rear triangulated link eliminates chassis “yaw” and adds to stability at freeway speeds. No other system available offers this advanced configuration.

You want tough? All components in the Full Traction Suspension 6" long arm lift system are built for maximum off road punishment. We use 2” x .250” wall DOM tubing for our lower trailing arm assemblies for serious rock dragging, and 1/4” plate laser crafted bracketry throughout. This is a fully bolt-on system. No welding required to install. Optional Full-Traction FS-5100 series shocks and CV drive shaft sold separately.

Key Benefits
The Full Traction Suspension center skid plate gains 1.5 inches of clearance over stock. Precise, comfortable street handling, combined with excellent off-road performance. This truly is the only long arm system of it's type.


Important Notes
WARNING: This suspension system will enhance the off-road performance of your vehicle. It will handle differently, both on and off-road, from a factory equipped passenger car or truck. Extreme care must be used to prevent loss of control or vehicle rollover during abrupt maneuvers. Failure to drive this vehicle safely may result in serious injury or death to the driver and passengers. ALWAYS WEAR your seat belts. Reduce your speed, and AVOID sharp turns and other abrupt maneuvers.

Before installing this system, have the vehicle’s alignment checked by a certified technician. The alignment must be within factory specifications and the frame of the vehicle must be sound
(no cracks, damage or corrosion).

Do not chrome, cad or zinc plate any of the components in this system. Changing the coated surface of components will void the warranty of your Full Traction Suspension.

This suspension system was developed using the following tire & wheel combination: 35” x12.50 tire, 15 x 8 wheel with 4.5 inches of wheel backspacing. Before installing any other combination, consult your local tire and wheel specialist.


Mandatory Requirements
97-2004 Jeep TJ
*Slip Yoke Eliminator
*Rear CV Drive Shaft Replacement
*Exhaust Modification - See Pg.4

2003-2004 Jeep Rubicon
*Rear CV Drive Shaft Replacement
*Exhaust Modification - See Pg.4


The required installation time for this system is approximately 12-15 hours. Installation time will vary. Allow time for transfer case and exhaust modifications.

FULL TRACTION SUSPENSION IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE OR FAILURE RESULTING FROM AN IMPROPER OR MODIFIED INSTALLATION.


Full Traction Suspension 6" Long Arm Lift Kit

Unlike any other kit I have seen to date, what drew me to the Full Traction Suspension Long Arm Lift Kit was its true 4-link front end design (as opposed to radius arms like so many other manufacturers use today) and its awesome tri-link rear end design that effectively eliminates the need for a rear track bar. Also, having seen this kit up close and in person at the 2005 SEMA show, I knew that the materials used, quality of the welds, level of detail, craftsmanship and finish were all unsurpassed by anything else out there. Add all that to the fact this lift is a completely bolt on kit, I was sold.

Now, I'm not going to kid you, installing the Full Traction Suspension Long Arm kit is no walk in the park but with the right tools and a little elbow grease, just about anyone can do this install. It can even be done all by yourself but an extra set of hands would really help out a lot. And, if you don't have the skills to weld thin metal like me, be prepared to have your Jeep taken in to a local muffler shop to have your new exhaust system installed.

So is it all worth it? You bet! The Full Traction Suspension Long Arm Lift is worth every penny, blood, sweat and tear. Immediately after completing the install, I drove my Jeep over 800 miles to Moab, wheeled the hell out of it there and then drove it back again. And, I can honestly say, I don't know how I managed to tolerate anything else under my Jeep for as long as I had.


Installation
PLEASE NOTE: I have tried my best to do this write-up from the perspective of a stock Jeep TJ. Unfortunately, my Jeep had already been modified quite a bit by the time I installed this suspension lift and so some of the photos you will see have been recycled from previous write-ups in order to illustrate what needs to be done.
Full Traction Suspension 6" Long Arm Lift Kit Parts This is a pic from the Full Traction Suspension website and it shows all the parts you should get with your lift kit (minus the hardware). Take the time and make sure you have all the parts shown here and all the tools listed to the left before starting this project.
  1. To begin this project, park your Jeep on a level surface and somewhere you can leave it for a few days without having to move it.
Jeep TJ being lifted up with a floor jack 2. Using a floor jack, raise the entire rear end of your Jeep from the axle so that the wheels are completely off the ground. Position a tall jack stand underneath each of the frame rails just in front of the lower control arm mounts. Slowly lower your Jeep back down making sure that the jack stands make good contact with the frame rails and are safely supporting the weigh of your Jeep. Place a small jack stand on either side of your axle so that the whole thing is supported with the wheels off the ground and then lower your floor jack to the ground. Repeat this process on the front end of your Jeep. Your entire Jeep should now be supported on jack stands.
Removing the lug nut off a Jeep TJ's wheels 4. Remove the wheels off of your Jeep's axles using a 19mm tire-iron or impact wrench. Set them aside and out of the way.

5. Put your Jeep in gear, engage the emergency brake and then shift your transfer case to 4WD Low.
Disconnecting rear drive shaft from the pinion yoke Disconnecting the rear drive shaft from the pinion yoke Removing the rear drive shaft out of the transfer case
6. Remove the 4 bolts and 2 yoke straps securing the drive shaft to the rear axle using a 5/16" socket or wrench. 7. Grab the drive shaft with one hand and then give it a tap with a rubber mallet to free it from the pinion shaft. Loosely re-attach the U joint bolts and strap on to the pinion shaft for safe keeping. 8. Remove the 2 metal band securing both ends of the rubber boot on the transfer case output shaft using a pair of pliers. You can now remove the drive shaft from your transfer case by simply pulling it toward the rear of your Jeep.
Transmission mount bolts 9. Using a 1/2" socket, remove the 4 nuts securing your transmission mount to the center of the transfer case skid plate. Save the nuts as they will be reused.
Securing Jeep transfer case skid plate 10. Place a jack stand underneath the bell housing of your transmission and then slide a floor jack under the center of your transfer case skid plate and raise it up until it puts a little pressure on it. As you can see in the pic to the left, I also used a short 2x4 piece of wood to help distribute the load.
Removing Jeep TJ transfer case skid plate 11. Remove the 6 bolts securing your transfer case skid plate to your Jeep's frame rails. On a 1997-2002 Jeep TJ, you will need a 3/4" socket. 2003+ TJ's use a metric bolt that is similar in size but I do not know what it is. A breaker bar will come in handy here and if you live in the rust belt of America, some PB Blaster on the bolts will help out a lot.
Removing Jeep TJ transfer case skid plate 12. With the bolts remove, slowly lower your floor jack just a little and make sure that your transmission is now resting on top of the jack stand you place under the bell housing. Then, grab the lip of the transfer case skid plate and roll the whole thing out from under your Jeep.
Remove front drive shaft from pinion yoke 13. Make a couple of reference marks on your Jeep's front drive shaft and pinion yoke. Then remove the bolts and U-straps securing the drive shaft to the axle using a 5/16" wrench. Carefully lower the drive shaft to ground.
Remove front drive shaft from front output shaft yoke 14. Now, remove the 4 bolts attaching your front drive shaft to the transfer case output shaft using a 5/16" wrench. With the drive shaft completely free of your Jeep, set it aside and out of the way.
Cut off Jeep exhaust pipe 15. Using an electric grinder with a cut off wheel or a reciprocating saw, cut your exhaust just past the point where the two tubes become one and makes its turn around the front of your Jeep's oil pan.
Remove track bar cotter pin 16. Remove the entire exhaust system from where you made your cut to the tail pipe. You may find it necessary to unbolt the exhaust hanger located next to the passenger side rear coil to make this job easier but if you do, make sure to replace it when done.
Remove track bar castellated nut Ring track bar out of mount
17. Remove the cotter pin from the track bar frame mount stud using a pair of needle nose pliers. 18. Using a 3/4" socket, loosen the castellated nut securing the track bar to the frame mount but do not completely remove it at this time. 19. To release the track bar's stud, give the frame mount a couple of good whacks with a 3 lb. hammer. This should be enough to ring out the grip of the mount and your track bar's stud should simply drop out.
Remove track bar axle mount bolt 20. Remove the bolt and flag nut securing your track bar to the axle mount using a 15mm socket. Pull the whole thing out from under your Jeep.
Remove front sway bar links 21. Remove the lower sway bar link bolts and nuts using a Torx T-55 Bit and 18mm socket. The upper nut can be removed using a 17mm socket but separating the links tapered stud from the sway bar will require the use of a tie-rod end puller like the one shown in the pic to the left. Simply slip it over your sway bar, locate the bolt over the top of the tapered stud and then proceed to slowly ratchet down the tool with a wrench until the links pops off.
Remove front shock upper mount 22. The front shocks on your Jeep are mounted with a stud mount on top and it will need to be held with a wrench or vice grips while unscrewing the nut with a 9/16" wrench.
Remove front shock lower mount 23. Using a 13mm wrench and a 13mm deep socket, remove the bolts and nuts securing your Jeep's front shock to the axle.
Remove drag link cotter pin Unscrew drag link castellated nut Separate ball joint with separator
24. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from your drag link mounting stud at the pitman arm. 25. Now, loosen but do not completely remove the castellated nut on the drag link mounting stud using a 3/4" socket. 26. Slip a ball joint separator or pickle fork between your drag link and pitman arm and then give the end of it a couple of good whacks with a 3 lb. hammer until it separates the two.
Place front breaks out of the way 27. Remove the Torx bolt and retaining clip securing your brake line to the frame using a T-40 Torx Bit. Or, if you already have extended brake lines, simply remove the caliper bolts using a 1/2" socket and then place the caliper itself on top of the spring perch. With the brake lines free from the frame, you should be able to drop your axle down far enough to remove your coils springs.
Remove coil retaining bolt 28. Using a 13mm socket or wrench, remove the front spring retaining clamp from the driver side of your Jeep. With a very few exceptions of year or country, there should be no retaining clamp on the passenger side.
Remove Jeep TJ front coil springs 29. Using a floor jack, slowly lower one side of your front axle as far as it will go. If you're Jeep is up high enough, your coil springs should just about fall out at this point and time. If not, you may need the help of spring compressors to remove your front coil springs. Raise and support your axle back on a jack stand and then repeat this process on the other side of your Jeep.
Disconnect front lower control arm mount from frame 30. Remove your Jeep's front lower control arms from the frame rail mounts using a 21mm socket and a crescent wrench. A breaker may be needed as the bolts are on quite tight.
Disconnect front lower control arm mount from axle 31. Now, remove your Jeep's front lower control arms from the front axle mounts using a 21mm socket and a crescent wrench. Again, a breaker may be needed as the bolts are on quite tight. Be sure to save the factory hardware as they will be reused.
Remove upper control arm from axle 32. Make sure your axle is securely supported and will not rotate or pivot. Then, using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt securing your Jeep's upper control arm to the front axle mount. Keep the factory hardware as you will need to reuse them
Remove front upper control arms from frame mount 33. Again, using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt securing your Jeep's upper control arm mount to the frame rail. Keep the factory hardware as you will need to reuse them
Cut upper control frame mount with a reciprocating saw 34. Cut off the bulk of your Jeep's upper control arm frame mount using a reciprocating saw. This is needed to prevent your new Full Traction upper control arms from making contact with them.
Score lower control arm mounts Cut up and through lower control arm bracket Bend Jeep lower control arm to remove
35. Using an electric grinder, begin removing your Jeep's lower control arm frame mount by creating a deep score all the way around the mount just beneath the weld as shown. 36. Cut through the base of your Jeep's lower control arm frame mount all the way up to the score you created earlier using an electric grinder with a cut off wheel or reciprocating saw. 37. Clamp the base of your Jeep's lower control arm frame mount with a pair of vice-grips and then work it back and forth until it breaks off at the score. Repeat this process with the inside half of the mount.
Grind welds smooth Dual Action Sander finish Full Traction Suspension upper control arm mount
38. Remove all the remaining welds and steel from the factory control arm brackets on both sides of the frame rails as well as underneath it using an electric grinder. 39. Smooth out the frame rails using a dual action sander. For the best results, start with a rough grit sand paper, move up to a medium grit and then finish up with a very fine grit. 40. Starting on the passenger side of your Jeep, locate the appropriate side Full Traction Suspension upper control arm support bracket and position it on the frame rail so that the forward edge of the body mount is centered in between the "V" of the bracket. Temporarily secure it in place with a small tie-down strap.
Locate bracket with tape measure 41. Using the large hole in your Jeep's frame rail as a reference point, measure and make a note of where the Full Traction Suspension upper control arm bracket is located in relationship to it. This will help you to locate the driver side upper control arm bracket at the same distance.
Mark frame with center punch 42. Using the Full Traction Suspension upper control arm bracket as a template, locate and mark the (1) large access hole and (3) smaller holes you will need to drill on the outside of your Jeep's frame rail with a center punch and hammer. Then, locate and mark off the holes on the inside of your Jeep's frame rail.
Remove body mount bolts 43. In order to have enough room to drill the hole furthest to the rear of your Jeep, you will need to remove your Jeep's body mount bolt. You will need to use a 3/4" socket to do this.
Drill frame rail Drill frame rail Drill frame rail
44. Remove the Full Traction Suspension upper control arm bracket and drill out the (3) smaller holes using a 7/16" bit. Drill only through the outside wall of your frame rail. 45. Using a 1/4" bit, drill a pilot hole through the center of where your large access hole will be. Drill only through the outside wall of your frame rail. 46. Using a 1-1/8" metal cutting hole saw, carefully drill out the access hole through the outside wall of your frame rail only.
Drill frame rail 47. Now, climb underneath your Jeep so that you can work on the inside wall of your frame rail. Using a 90° side angle drill and a 1/8" bit, drill a pilot hole where each of the (3) smaller holes and center of the large access hole will come through.
Drill frame rail

48. Back on the outside of your Jeep, continue drilling the (3) 7/16" holes all the way through the pilot holes you just created on the inside wall of the frame rail.

49. Looking through the 1-1/8" access hole you created earlier on the outside frame rail, locate the pilot hole you made on the inside wall and drill it out using a 9/16" bit.

50. Prime and paint your frame rails semi-gloss black.

Install control arm bracket 51. Attach the Full Traction Suspension upper control arm mount bracket using (3) of the 3/8"x3.5" grade 8 bolts, washers and lock nuts supplied with the kit. Make sure that the bolt heads are located on the inside of your Jeep's frame rails. You will need a 9/16" socket and wrench to fasten the hardware.
Remove clip 52. Climb under the driver side of your Jeep and remove the plastic tab from the frame rail securing a hard line.

53. Repeat steps 37-47 on the driver side of your Jeep.
Grease bolts 54. Locate the (2) 9/16"x4" greasable bolts, matching washers and lock nuts that should have come with your Full Traction Suspension Long Arm Kit.
Grease bolt zerk nipple 55. The Full Traction Suspension front upper control arms come pre-assembled with axle mount joints that are angled inward. Verify that both upper control arms are the same length and install them onto the frame rail brackets using the (2) 9/16"x4" greasable bolts, washers and lock nuts.
Install Full Traction Suspension upper control arm 56. Using a 13/16" socket and 7/8" wrench, tighten the greasable bolts to 85 ft. lbs. of torque. Leave the jam nut hand tight for now as you will most likely need to adjust the upper control arm lengths later to correct your Jeep's pinion angle.
Install Full Traction Suspension upper control arm 57. Using a 15mm socket and a pair of vice-grips, install the Full Traction Suspension upper control arms onto your Jeep's front axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. of torque.

Reinstall your Jeep's body mount bolt using a 3/4" socket and continue to page 2.

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