The bushing that connects to the axle was damaged pretty bad and took about 2 hours to remove using a drill and torch. This is what it looked like once I got it all off.
Here you can see the tapered stud connection that attaches to the frame. As you can see here, the threads were smashed and unusable in its current state. The castellated nut wasn't in any better shape.
Using a re-threading tool like the one shown above, I was able to salvage the damaged tapered stud.
Here's a shot of the new polyurethane bushing I was able to find made by Energy Suspension.
The bushing kit came with a new dust boot too. It's a good thing cause the previous rubber one was trashed on removal.
Here you can see the new TeraFlex track bar above all nice-n-shiny and the OEM bar below.
You will need to use a Pitman Arm Puller (aka Pickle Fork) like the one shown above to separate the ball joint stud mount from your frame.
Remove the bolt holding the axle end of your control arm using a 15mm socket.
You will need to use a pry bar to shift the axle over so you can re-insert the track bar bolt.
Adjustments to your track bar can be made by rotating this turnbuckle.
Adjust your tie-rod turnbuckle to re-center your steering wheel.
TeraFlex Adjustable Front
Track Bar Rebuild & Installation

After installing a 3" Lift on your Jeep, you will either need to install a new adjustable front track bar or relocate your OEM track bar by drilling a new mounting hole on your axle flange 9/16" towards the driver side. This is needed to re-center your front axle as it has now shifted over towards the driver side of your Jeep enough to be noticeable and cause problems.

I myself was just about to re-locate mine when michaelturtle1 came along and was kind enough to offer me his old TeraFlex adjustable one. It's a good thing too cause I don't like drilling anymore holes in my Jeep than I absolutely need to. Anyway, the track bar was free but it was also in serious need of a rebuild. The biggest problem I was faced with was the bushing that is used to connect to the axle end had completely frozen up in the track bar and the connecting bolt had been cut off on either end plugging up the hole. The other problem I had was the ball joint tapered stud had smashed threads and a stripped castellated nut. Not good but not impossible to fix either.

What You Will Need
• Energy Suspension Front Track Arm Set (Part#2.7102)
• Re-Threading Nut Tool 1/2-20
• Drill
• Propane Torch
• Flathead Screw Drivers (1-small, 1-big and long)
• Bench Vice
• Hammer
• Ratchet
• SAE Socket Set

• Pitman Arm Puller/Pickle Fork
• New Cotter Pin
• 3 lb. Hammer
• 19mm, 15mm sockets
• Torque Wrench
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Pry Bar
• Floor Jack
• (2) Jack Stands
• Wheel Chocks
• Grease Gun

1. Before I did anything, I decided to look for a new bushing for a front track bar. If I couldn't track one down, there would be no point in doing anything else if you know what I mean. Believe me, this was actually a lot harder than I thought. The first place I check was at the dealership thinking that if anyone would have one, it would be them.... WRONG!! If you want a new bushing, you have to buy a whole new track bar!! So, I went looking at my local parts stores and nope, they didn't have anything either. Finally, I called Energy Suspension (they make all kinds of poly bushings) who is located just a few miles from me and they told me that they did in fact make one but that they didn't sell directly to the public. Well, long story short, I was finally able to track one down at my local 4wheelparts store and it cost about $15.

2. Okay, time to remove the old bushing. Piece of cake right? LOL!! Man, this thing was a PITA. In order to remove it, I had to drill a series of holes all around the circumference of the rubber core. Then, using a torch, I burnt out the remaining rubber until it became brittle enough to pry out with a screwdriver.

3. That was just the beginning. After removing the core, there was a metal sleeve that had to be removed too. I'm guessing that the original rubber bushing was molded into this sleeve and then pressed into the track bar Anyway, using a hammer, i pounded a small flathead screwdriver in-between the sleeve and track bar and pry it back as far as I could. Then, holding the bar in one hand, I started to hit the pry back edge of the sleeve using a hammer until the whole thing fell out.

4. Onto the ball joint. As I already mentioned, the threads on the tapered studs were totally smashed. To fix this, you will need to use a re-threading tool (I believe it was a 1/2-20) like the one shown to the right. Just take your time and back out often and you will get nice clean threads again. If it's still on, remove and throw away the old rubber dust cover. You won't be needing it.

5. At this point, I decided to take the whole thing apart, wire brush it free of rust and then gave it a nice coat of gloss black Rustolium.

6. Once the paint is dry, apply some of teflon lube (supplied with the bushing kit) to the two half's of the bushings and then assemble it on to your track bar as shown in the pic to the left. There should be a zinc plated sleeve that goes through the center.

7. Install the new poly dust cover supplied with the kit onto the ball joint and you are done.

Front Track Bar Installation

1. Park on level ground, chock your rear wheels, jack up the front end of your Jeep and then set the frame back down onto jack stands just behind the lower control arm brackets.

2. Place your floor jack under the center of your front axle and lift it up enough to get the tires just barely off the ground. This will help take the pressure off the OEM track bar for removal and make it easier to install the new track bar later.

3. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud. This is where the track bar is attached to the driver side frame rail.

4. Loosen but do not completely remove the castellated nut, insert the pickle fork in between the frame rail bracket and the rubber ball joint boot and then tap it with a 3 lb. hammer until the stud mount pops loose as shown in the pic to the right. Leaving the nut on the stud just prevents the whole track bar from falling once it comes loose.

5. Remove the castellated nut and then lower the track bar down. Now remove the bolt and flag nut attaching the track bar to the axle and pull the whole thing out.

6. To minimize the amount of adjusting you will need to do, try to set the length of your new track bar as close as you can to where it needs to be before you install it. In my case, I just installed a 3" lift and therefore set it to about 9/16" longer than the OEM (the same distance needed to re-drill the mounting hole on the axle).

7. Slip the ball joint stud through the frame rail bracket, fasten the castellated nut on top to 65 ft. lbs. of torque and then insert a new cotter pin.

8. Installing the new track bar on to the axle end will be a bit more tricky as none of the mounting holes will be lined up now. So, slide up the track bar up into the axle mounting bracket and try to get the hole to line up as close as possible. Now, insert a small pry bar in between the mounting bracket and the end of the track bar (see pic to the left) and then pry the whole axle over a bit until the mounting holes line up enough for you to slip the bolt through.

9. Fasten the bolt to the flag nut and then crank it down to 55 ft. lbs. of torque.

10. Check to make sure your front axle is center again by measuring how much your tires stick out of your fenders on both sides.

11. If further adjustment is needed, just loosen the bolts/sleeves holding the turnbuckle in place and then rotate the whole thing. Once your axle is centered, re-tighten the bolts and you are done.

12. Lower your Jeep and check to see how far off your steering wheel is off center.

13. My steering wheel was off about a 1/4 turn to the right after the install. To fix this, set your front wheel as straight as possible, loosen the turnbuckle bolts on your drag link and then rotate the whole thing until your steering wheel is centered again. Tighten up the bolts (make sure they are facing foward so they don't interfere with the track bar) and then take your Jeep for a spin. If your steering wheel is still off, repeat this step until it is on.

That's pretty much it. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Post Installation Notes

I have talked to a lot of guys regarding the TeraFlex's adjustable front track bar and need I say that there is some debate about it's design being weak. I cannot tell you one way or another whether or not this is true but I will be sure to let you know if I come across any complications.

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